Wednesday evening at about 7pm the swell really started to fill in. That is where my last weekend began. Head high sets started pumping in, filling my dreams that evening of the waves to come.
Thursday morning, I woke up early and ran down to find Oak St breaking further out than I had ever seen it before. I knew it was about to be a great time.
A view of Laguna's main breaks. Shot from somewhere near Rock Pile.
Porter Hogan. Rock Pile.
These photos are all from Thursday. I decided that I was going to surf through this swell and try to get some time in bigger waves. I'm so glad that I did. The short period of time where I did shoot was so fun! I got some shots that I'm amped on.. check them out.
All action shots are of Porter Hogan. He had a bit of fun in those few hours... Epic.
The shore breaks in Laguna can get gnarly! wow. This last photo is pretty intense. The barrel is so thick! Notice the surfer that decided it was a good idea to ditch his board... I wonder if he later thought that was a good idea? I hate it when people do that. Keep that thing close so it doesn't kill others, and so that you can actually learn how to dive with it! jeez..
It was a beautiful weekend. There are still plenty of waves going around. So first thing in the morning, I'm gunna go get some more!
See ya out there.